The most beautiful sunrise of my life, viewed from a hotel window in Lagos
I knew something was off when we realized we were the only couple staying in this giant hotel in Lagos. We had just spent a week traveling through Spain, and while mid-October was still early enough to catch the tail end of the crowds, by the time we reached Portugal it was late October. This is known as “Shoulder Season”, not the dead of winter, but not quite peak season either.
The sun-seekers had long since left the Algarve, leaving behind just a few dozen golfers who seemed to have the hotel to themselves. I can’t say I minded, though. It was my first time in Portugal, and I was more than happy to explore Lagos without the crowds. As the golfers rushed out of the breakfast buffet to catch their tee time, we sauntered out to explore Lagos.
Lagos
Praia dos Estudantes beach, Lagos
Lagos is a fantastic home base for exploring the Algarve. The town is small, but there’s enough going on to keep an evening stroll interesting, and you can reach some of the region’s most iconic coastline right from Praia dos Estudantes.
This is probably my favorite thing about the Algarve. You start at an easy-access beach where everyone gathers, but each time you crawl through a little cave or shimmy around the water’s edge, you reach another beach with even fewer people. Keep working your way down the coastline and eventually you can find your own little slice of paradise.
Limestone cliffs of the Algarve
The best way to experience the Algarve coastline is by boat. Since we were there in the off-season, it was easy and surprisingly affordable to find a small boat to take us out along the cliffs.
The key is to go with a smaller vessel and a good captain. These guys know the coastline inside and out, slipping into narrow sea caves and cutting the motor at just the right moment so the boat can drift through without scraping against the limestone.
I never thought I’d fall in love with tilework until I came to Portugal. Tiny black-and-white tiles line the major plazas, forming all sorts of eccentric nautical patterns. Walking through the streets of Lagos sometimes feels like you’re wandering through the world’s fanciest bathroom.
The Alhambra had already trained me to look for geometric patterns, and suddenly I started noticing them everywhere. It seems like a small detail, but it gives Portuguese cities such a distinct look that you immediately feel like you’re nowhere else in Europe.
Geometric tile patterns on the river promenade in Lagos
We’ve been back to Portugal a few times since this 2021 trip, and each visit has taught us something new. If you want us to plan you a perfect Portugal itinerary, just hit the button below!
Lisbon
View of the Lisbon Cathedral and the Alfama at golden hour
The first thing to know about Lisbon is that you need to be prepared to walk A LOT. Like Rome, Lisbon was born among 7 hills and those hills still shape the character of the city today. Here’s are quick guide to navigating the city:
